Bicol Express

Cut Pork belly into bite-sized pieces, keeping the skin and fat on if you have them: that fat is where the flavour lives. Crush Garlic, julienne Ginger and slice Onions. Slice Red chillies into rings, keeping the seeds in. If you want it tamer, scrape out half the seeds; if you want proper Bicol heat, leave every one.

Heat a heavy pot over medium heat and add 1 tbsp Neutral oil. Add the pork and fry until the pieces are lightly golden at the edges and have released a good film of fat, about 8 min.

⚠ Tip: Don't crowd the pot: if the pork steams instead of frying, it never browns. Do it in two batches if needed.

Push the pork to the side, drop in Garlic, Ginger and Onions, and fry until the onion turns translucent and the garlic smells sweet, about 3 min.

Pour in 400 ml Coconut milk and stir everything together. Bring it to a gentle simmer and cook, uncovered, until the liquid reduces by about half and the oil starts to bead on the surface, about 15 min.

Stir in Shrimp paste, 1 tbsp Fish sauce and Ground black pepper. Taste now: it should be salty, funky and already quite hot. Add a pinch of Sugar only if it tastes harsh.

⚠ Tip: Shrimp paste brands vary wildly in salt. Start with less, taste, then add more.

Add the sliced chillies and simmer until they soften and the sauce clings thickly to the pork, about 10 min. The sauce should be glossy and oily, not watery.

Turn the heat down and keep cooking until the coconut fat splits out and pools at the edges of the pot, about 5 min more. This is the sign it's done: thick, red-flecked and rich.

⚠ Tip: If it looks greasy, you've gone one step too far; if it looks soupy, keep going. You want the fat just breaking out.

Spoon over steamed rice and eat immediately, while the coconut sauce is still loose enough to soak in.