Dan Dan Noodles
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Slice thin on the bias and crush with the flat of your knife. Mash with a pinch of until it turns to a sticky paste. Toast in a dry pan over medium heat until it crackles and smells sharply citrusy, about 1 min 30 sec. Cool, then grind to a fine powder. Chop very fine so no firm bits survive the frying. If yours tastes aggressively salty, rinse it and squeeze it dry in a cloth.

A quick crush and shake through a sieve is fine here: you want powder, not grit, or the numbing lands in one bite instead of spreading.

Ya cai is the backbone of the dish. Skip it and you are eating chilli noodles, which is a different, sadder bowl.

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