Hunan Steamed Fish Head with Chopped Salted Chillies
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Lay the skin side up on a board. Scrape the scales and the slippery black membrane with the back of a knife, cut away the gill flaps and any blood clot in the throat, then rinse under cold water until the water runs clear. Pat very dry with kitchen paper, inside and out.

Scales and gills are where the muddy river smell hides. A knife-back scrape does this faster than a spoon and leaves the skin intact.

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