Xinjiang Cumin Lamb Stir-Fry

Cut Lamb into thin slices about 0.5 cm thick, cutting across the grain and leaving the fat on. Leave it out on the counter so it comes to room temperature while you prep; cold lamb steams instead of searing. Toss the sliced lamb with Light soy sauce, Shaoxing wine and Potato starch until every piece is lightly coated. Let it sit for 15 min — the starch will keep the lamb tender and help it catch the spice later.

⚠ Tip: Slightly firm the meat in the freezer for 20 min first if it's slippery; you'll get cleaner, thinner slices.

Put Cumin seeds in a dry pan over medium heat and shake until they darken a shade and smell warm and nutty, about 1 min 30 sec. Tip onto a board, let them cool slightly, then grind to a rough powder — some whole seeds left in is what you want.

⚠ Tip: Burnt cumin turns the whole dish bitter. Pull the pan off the moment the seeds start to pop and smoke.

Cut Onions into thick wedges, breaking the layers apart with your hands. Snip Dried chillies into long pieces and shake out most of the seeds, keeping a few back for heat. Slice Green chillies on the diagonal if using. Slice Garlic thin. Julienne Ginger into fine matchsticks. Cut Spring onions into finger-length batons, keeping the white and green parts separate.

Heat a wok over the highest flame until it just starts to smoke, then add 2 tbsp Neutral oil and swirl. Add the marinated lamb in one layer and leave it alone for 45 sec to build a crust, then stir-fry hard until it's browned at the edges but still juicy, about 2 min more. Scoop it out onto a plate.

⚠ Tip: Crowding the wok drops the temperature and you'll boil the lamb. If your wok is small, sear in two batches.

Drop the heat to high heat, add 1 tbsp Neutral oil to the wok and swirl. Add the dried chillies and stir until they turn deep red and smell toasty, about 20 sec, before they darken. Add Garlic, Ginger and the white parts of the spring onion and stir for 20 sec until fragrant and raw-smelling no more.

⚠ Tip: Smoking oil burns dried chillies black in seconds, and black chillies taste bitter. Keep the oil shimmering and keep things moving.

Add Onions and the sliced fresh chilli and toss for 45 sec. You want them just starting to soften and pick up colour at the edges, still with bite.

Tip the seared lamb and any resting juices back into the wok and toss everything together for 30 sec.

Kill the heat to low heat. Add the ground cumin, Sichuan chilli flakes and 1 tsp Salt and toss hard so the spice toasts in the fat without scorching — you should smell warm cumin roll off the wok, 20 sec.

⚠ Tip: Add cumin off the high flame: it's already toasted, and a second burn over direct heat makes it acrid.

Off the heat, stir through the green parts of the spring onion, Toasted sesame oil and Coriander if using. Serve immediately — this dish waits for no one.